Priscilla's dishes up superb soulfood

September 26, 2003

IN A BITE Priscilla's Ultimate Soulfood Cafeteria West 4330 W. Roosevelt, Hillside; (708) 544-6230. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Wednesday-Friday and Sunday; Saturday breakfast from 6 a.m.-11 a.m.; lunch and dinner noon to 9 p.m; dine in or carry out.

The last time I had fried chicken this good it was at Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room on West Jones Street in Savannah, Georgia. Mrs. Wilkes makes the best fried chicken I've ever tasted.

The fried chicken at Priscilla's Ultimate Soulfood Cafeteria West has all the right moves: light and golden brown on the outside, tender and moist right to the bone. The "frying" part is handled with finesse, so there is flavor piled on top of flavor. If you want really great fried chicken, this is the place to get it.

Priscilla's is a genuine cafeteria arrangement. One side of the room sports a long cafeteria line, and the lineup of soul food is so mouthwatering you want to try it all. Wednesday through Sunday (closed on Monday and Tuesday) different dishes are featured (but you can always get fried chicken), which really creates a problem -- or an opportunity, depending on how far you have to travel to get to Priscilla's.

On Saturday the featured dishes are fried chicken, barbecue ribs, meat loaf, and beef short ribs. This sets up an arrangement where you might think about going with three friends, so you can order all of those Saturday specials. Without getting into the nitty-gritty of those dishes, just let me say that you cannot go wrong with any of them. The beef short ribs are meaty and mighty flavorful. Ditto for the meat loaf. There are better barbecue ribs around (Robinson's No. 1 Ribs in Oak Park, for example), but for the price ($8.49), what's not to like?

All entrees include two sides and a corn muffin. As the menu points out, "all sides are not available every day," but considering that you have about 21 choices (mac and cheese, greens, candied yams, mashed potatoes, cole slaw, blackeyed peas, butter beans, red beans -- the list goes on), I am sure you will find something. I really enjoyed a nice and spicy mess of collard greens. I was deep into the cheesy flavor of the mac and cheese. The mashed potatoes were smooth, rich and enjoyable, as were the baked beans.

Desserts number an even dozen (not all of them available every day). I got lucky with a fine peach cobbler (emphasis on lots of peaches with a heavy hint of nutmeg). I went nuts over the lush and rich goodness of the sweet potato pie. The cheese cake (draped with a strawberry sauce) was just OK.

If you want to see a crowd of happy eaters, try the Saturdays-only breakfast. Here's the deal: You choose from one of four meats (two kinds of sausage, bacon, salmon patties). You choose three items from the pancakes, eggs, grits, potatoes list. And you choose one beverage. One price fits all ($7.99; kids $5.99). It's quite an experience, not to mention the enjoyment factor.

Prices for entrees go no higher than $8.49. And if you want an extra side, the price is just $1.69. So, that means you can have an order of great fried chicken and three sides, and that will run you just about ten bucks.

The big open room (and some pretty good-sized tables) has that boarding house feel (that's the way it is at Mrs. Wilkes' place, but her place is smaller). When the place is real busy, you will wind your way to the right and down to the far end of the room. Pick up a tray and try to make it through the line without drooling.

Pat Bruno